Our customers are often unsure about which line is best for their needs. The longer Skijoring Line or the shorter Canicross line? Below, we break down the main characteristics of each line. Both lines are made out of durable, tubular webbing with a built-in shock absorber.
IMPORTANT! The bungee (the shock absorber) should be closer to the human, not the dog. This will allow the person to comfortably grab the line to control the dog if needed.
SKIJORING LINE
This line is longer, about 8 ft. long before stretching and 9 ft. long after stretching.
It has been designed with skijoring (skiing behind your dog) in mind. The length is ideal to ski comfortably without hitting your dog with the tips of your skis.
This is a preferred line for bikejoring, presuming you have a hard-pulling, driven dog who loves to run ahead of you.
The Skijoring Line is an ideal line for hiking and/or walking your dog hands-free, especially if you want to give your dog room to roam while still safely attached to you.
This is a shorter line, measuring about 5 1/2 feet unstretched.
A shorter line is desired by canicrossers (people who jog with their dog).
This line can be used in urban settings for walking hands-free when greater control over the dog is required.
One end of the line features a brass snap that clips on the dog’s harness. The other end features a locking carabiner, which clips onto the human belt.
The carabiner can be removed. The line will transform into a leash with a built-in shock absorber.
What is the difference between our Hound Harness and our Light Weight Harness? We designed both styles to fit the needs of our racing dogs. First came the Light Weight Harness. With the evolution of the Eurohound breed, the Hound Harness followed.
Both harnesses are X-back style harnesses. This means they are full-length harnesses. An X-back style harness is best suited for hard-pulling dogs, both in mono-sports or on a team. The two examples of a dog’s built in the picture below should help you choose the harness style that is best suited for your dog. Yes, these are our dogs modeling. 😉
THE HOUND HARNESS
The Hound Harness is best suited for dogs with a large, wide chest. The breast plate features an H-shaped design to keep the harness centered as the dog runs. The neck opening is round (“collar-like”). This unique design keeps the pressure off the windpipe while the dog is pulling. No more choking for hard-pulling dogs!
The Light Weight Harness is best suited for dogs with a narrow chest. The same goes for the Hybrid Light Weight Harness. The breast plate features a V-shaped design to keep the harness centered as the dog runs. The neck opening is diamond-shaped (“almond-like”). This comfortable harness design is suited for most breeds out there.
You will find more Light Weight Harness info HERE.
On occasion, we come across desperate ZDR dog owners stating that after a while Nutrazinc stopped working/is not working for their dog. We understand that every dog is different – each dog’s ZRD condition is different – some milder, some more severe. However, the same guidelines should apply to all. There are a few reasons why you are not seeing results supplementing Nutrazinc. Below are the most common mistakes people make:
1. The dose given to the dog is too low. Dogs in an acute ZRD flare-up need three to four times the recommended maintenance dose. This dose is based on the weight of the dog. Follow the directions on the Nutrazinc jar to calculate the correct dose for your dog.
2. The diet your dog is on is not grain-free. Feeding kibble loaded with grains such as soy, wheat, and corn is a huge NO, as phytates in cereals and soy inhibit the absorption of zinc. No matter how much Nutrazinc you give, if you feed such dry food, you will not see an improvement in the condition of your dog. Switching the diet to a RAW diet or a high-quality grain-free kibble is a must.
3. Your dog is getting too much calcium. If you feed your dog yogurt or goat’s milk (to supplement gut flora) or give your dog bones regularly, you won’t see the desired results while using Nutrazinc. Calcium in milk and bones inhibits absorption by binding with zinc ions.
4. Nutrazinc is too old. People often make a mistake and purchase a jar of Nutrazinc that is too large for their needs. The Nutrazinc powder will oxidize in time and lose its potency. This happens when exposed to air while constantly closing and opening the jar. If you purchase the 32 oz jar of Nutrazinc (intended for large kennels), it will last a 50 lb. dog for 7 years. The shelf-life of the product is one year after opening. If Nutrazinc is too old, it won’t work in the way it should. You will have to up the dose significantly. This is why we strongly recommend the smallest jar (the 8 oz. jar) for single dog owners.
Unlike over-the-counter zinc supplements in pill form, Nutrazinc contains no additives, fillers, or stabilizers. The product is zinc gluconate in its purest form, readily bioavailable for absorption in the dog’s gut.
Do you have a dog that has a weird gait you can’t explain? Is your dog running “sideways” and you don’t understand why? Have you been trying to get deep down to the core of the issue without any success? Is the way your dog runs driving you crazy? I promise that this informative article will shed new light on the problem. We will also offer you a simple fix. So, keep on reading…
Crabbing can be caused by many reasons. A dog with poor conformation may have a bad gait. A hard-pulling dog may be trying to go faster than you allow. An injury may cause the dog to compensate by running at an angle. A poorly fitting harness may be hurting the dog. Even being mentally stressed out can cause a dog to run funny and turn into a bad habit.
Your simplest solution will be GOING FASTER. Try to speed up your run so that your dog lopes, and stretches out nicely. If this does not help (or if your dog is a trotter), switching out your harness design can be a good tool to help a dog run straighter. Dogs find it easy to crab in a regular X-back harness. They use the side straps of the harness to lean into – especially if they are trying to pull hard and run faster than the pace you set. Using a half-harness style will take away that “crutch” and the dog will run straighter. Another option is to use the Wheel Dog Harness. The side straps at the rear of the harness sit on the dog’s thighs. The force from the tugline is lower than the hips so the harness can’t be pulled off to one side, thus keeping the dog in line with the harness.
The RAW diet is becoming increasingly popular amongst dog owners that are hesitant of or don’t see any benefits of feeding dry kibble. Even though there are many top-quality dry dog foods on the market, some dogs might be sensitive to the ingredients. Also, dogs suffering from Zinc Responsive Dermatitis (ZRD) must be fed a restricted, grain-free diet. That’s where feeding RAW comes into place.
A RAW diet emphasizes raw meat, bones, fruits, and vegetables. Many dog owners feel that mixing their own food will give them better control over what “goes into the stomach” of their dog. They want to control the quality of the food. They are making sure that the diet is free of undesirable grains, fillers, toxins, and food colorings. However, properly balancing a RAW diet can be quite a challenge. Commercial kibble contains all the needed vitamins and minerals. Those are quite often lacking if a dog is fed RAW.
A RAW dog food diet typically consists of:
Muscle meat, often still on the bone
Bones, either whole or ground
Organ meats such as livers and kidneys
Raw eggs
Vegetables like broccoli, spinach, and celery
Apples or other fruit
Some dairy such as yogurt
You will find several RAW dog food recipes and guides by simply searching online.
Here at Howling Dog Alaska, we feed our canine athletes a balanced mixture of quality kibble, meat, and supplements. However, we believe that feeding a strictly RAW diet will improve the health and prolong the life span of any dog. Are you thinking about giving the RAW diet a shot? Howling Dog Alaska has the right nutritional supplement for you! A supplement that will help to balance your diet. Check out ENHANCE.
Photo submitted by Ed Boon (United States). CONGRATULATIONS!
Ed and his dog Aska surely love competition. They have done it again! They rallied all their fans and pulled off another impressive win. Ed and Aska are avid hikers and veterans of our Photo Contest. This winning photo received a record number of 214 votes! This beat their record high from last year. Well done!
Meg and her pack love the outdoors. Whether it comes to hiking, bikejoring or sledding, they are active 12 months a year. In this picture, all of Meg’s girls double for real sled dogs. It shows that any breed can do it! Meg’s photo received 133 votes, which resulted in second place two years in a row. Congratulations!
We love this cute husky giving a high five. Marta captured the moment perfectly. The picture ended up in a well-deserved third place by receiving 79 votes. High five!
If you are just getting started in the sport of canicross, skijoring, or hiking, you might be having a difficult time deciding which one of our belts will best suit your needs. Below we summarized the differences between our Trekking Belt and our CaniSki belt. We highlighted why one might be better for you than the other. We hope you will find this side-by-side comparison helpful.
TREKKING BELT
Trekking Belt closure (a snap-in buckle)
A simple, yet very sturdy “wrap around” belt.
There are no leg straps.
The belt is very easy to put on and to take off.
A single closure (a plastic clip) is utilized.
The belt is made out of heavy-duty foam.
The belt features substantial back support.
The preferred way of wearing the belt is around the waist. However, it can be worn comfortably around the hips too.
Attached to the belt are a bottle holder and a small zip-up pocket.
It is a fully adjustable, one-size-fits-all belt.
This belt has been designed for walking dogs hands-free.
It may be used as a starter belt for skijorers and canicrossers, and also as a belt for hiking (when not using a backpack).
This belt is strong enough to safely hold 2+ dogs.
In this article we are bringing you a helpful piece of information regarding the use of a short harness versus a full-length x-back harness for canicross.
Howling Dog Alaska, the industry leader, started recommending short harnesses for canicross in early 2000. A short harness is a great harness for this sport due to the angle of the line attachment. Canicrossers prefer a shorter pulling line than skijorers, therefore the pull angle between the dog and the person can be quite steep. This is where a short harness comes into play, as it will stay in place nicely. A long harness in an x-back style (or any other full-length harness) will often lift off the end of the dog’s body. The end of an x-back harness will also lift upwards if the dog decides to run next to the person (rather than up front).
The one exception for the use of an x-back harness for canicross is if you have an experienced, hard pulling dog. A dog that will constantly stay up front. A dog that is a strong puller. You might also be using a slightly longer line. In such a case, an x-back harness design is superior and more comfortable for the dog. A short harness (for example the Distance Harness) – especially if not fitted correctly – will ride up the dog’s throat, making them rasp while running. The Second Skin/Tough Skin Harnesses is preferred to the Distance Harness for hard pulling dogs when choosing a short harness style.
Keep in mind that during canicross quite often you do not go fast enough to your dog’s full potential. In other words, unlike skijoring or bikejoring, canicross is a “slow” sport. And the slower you go, the harder a motivated dog will pull. You can use a short harness for pretty much any other canine “mono sport” due to a higher speed and lower resistance. This is not the case with canicross. Even though 90% of dogs will be comfortable in a good quality short harness, a small percentage will require an x-back harness.
This article explains the use and the pull-force distribution for Howling Dog Alaska harnesses. It will help you choose the correct harness style.
This article discusses canicross in a bigger detail. It is a great article for beginners.
We hope you found this information helpful. Feel free to CONTACT US should you need help with harness sizing, or advising you further about what harness style will be best for your needs.
Aliy and her husband Allen have been members of Team Howling Dog for many, many years. We have been honored to have them on board, as we could not have asked for better representatives. As difficult and unimaginable it must be for Aliy and Allen at the moment, there is life after competitive mushing. I, Ivana (the owner of Howling Dog Alaska), know this well from my own experience. We wish you all the best on your new journey, Alliy & Allen! You will always be part of our team. This is a letter Aliy recently sent to us:
This spring, after I finish my 21st Iditarod, I will retire from competitive sled dog racing. Yup. It’s big news for me and I thought you should know.
It might sound strange but, when I’m out there on the Iditarod standing on my sled runners all by myself, in the unpaved Alaska wilderness where wolves howl, ice cracks under my boots and the Arctic wind pierces even my thickest parka, I have never truly been alone. Yes, of course, I’ve had my amazing dogs, but I’ve also had you. You have meant a lot to me. You and many others like you. I’m not sure you can imagine the strength that I have gained from over 20 years of interaction with enthusiastic fans and friends like yourself. Do you know how much you have inspired and empowered me? So, obviously, I needed to thank you.
I don’t want you to think that I’m just up and quitting. My retirement has not been a quick decision. In truth, I know what it takes to be ultra-competitive. I have always raced the Iditarod to win. While the Last Great Race has been a spectacular adventure for me, it has also been physically and mentally demanding: every year, every winter, every day, every mile. And if I’m being honest, at times, I have been challenged to my very core. I know that in the not-so-distant future, I will not be able to give it my 100%. So, I am retiring before I have to retire.
What will I do with my Iditarod team of huskies? You needn’t worry. As you know, I began dog mushing because of my love for my dogs and my desire to spend endless days with them. I have done just that. Together, my dogs and I have raced over 30,000 miles. We have explored the winter wilderness of Alaska for decades together. Throughout my competitive life, I never gave up my values of deep love and respect for my dogs. These will be with me until my dying day. Dogs have been, and will always be, my life.
My post-Iditarod future is somewhat undecided. I love Alaska and will continue to explore our great state. Of course, my husband, Allen, and I will together decide what our next life adventure will be.
Will I miss it? I don’t know yet. But I do know that I will miss seeing you and the many individuals who have become part of my Iditarod life. The Last Great Race has brought me face-to-face with amazing and unique people across the state and from around the world.
Like you, wonderful people have reached out to me over the years. They have given me immense energy, passion, and spirit that has driven me to always, always do my best. There are so many people to thank. I’ll never forget the woman who approached me, several years ago, as I was signing autographs in the middle of a big crowd gathered in downtown Anchorage for the start of the Iditarod. With all the dogs and people crowded into the middle of 4th Avenue, I could barely hear her over the barking and cheering. People kept asking me for selfies and autographs. But she didn’t ask me for either. She gripped my arm and said, “Aliy, I need you to win.” I laughed and answered, “Yeah, I’m going to try to do exactly that.” She held my arm even tighter and said, “No, I need you to win. My boyfriend is always putting me down, and he says women can’t do things men can. I need you to prove we can.” I’ve never forgotten these words. In fact, they travel with me, glowing brightly, everywhere I go.
I want you to know I will never forget you. But now, I need you to understand that while I hope I have proven to you that I can stand strong and tall and proud alongside any person, man or woman, you need to believe that you have the same power. I truly believe you have, inside yourself, everything you need to ride over the roughest trails in life, stand up in the worst storm, stare down any challenge and make it to your own finish line – wherever you decide to put that line.
Thank you for giving me so much support and riding along with me on my Iditarod adventures for the last 20 years. My Last Great Race starts in less than a month. I know you’ll be with me!
In this article, we bring you useful information that will help everyone, especially the ones starting out in the sport of mushing – whether your goal is to race or recreate on snow or dryland. First, we need to define conditioning versus training. Training teaches behavior such as taking turns, slowing down, speeding up, or stopping. Here we will be addressing basic early-season conditioning for dogs to reach their optimum fitness level through exercise and nutrition. Proper exercise (conditioning) and nutrition go hand in hand. Either one on its own is not enough. You must address both areas. Keep in mind that the frame of reference in this article is feeding and conditioning a team of sprint racing sled dogs that run three to four times a week.
Fall conditioning training run.
GETTING IN SHAPE
The best way to start getting your dogs in shape is by playing, walking, and loose running them in the summer. They will learn how to use their bodies and feel comfortable with speed. Being agile comes in handy later when dodging obstacles on the trail. Loose running and zooming around will make them comfortable with a top speed. Another important thing is strengthening your dog’s ligaments and tendons, and increasing their aerobic capacity in the offseason before hooking them up to work in a harness. Professional mushers do this by having their dogs trot long, slow miles on an exercise wheel. People with one or two dogs can do the same by simply going on hikes with your dogs. You will have the benefit of getting in shape, too.
Sled dogs playing in the off-season.
CONDITIONING
Keep the first fall run in harness with the four-wheeler (or a cart) short. The distance for the first few runs will vary anywhere from one to three miles depending on the capability of your dogs, on the breed of your dogs, and on your goals later on in the season. However, do not go further than three miles. Run at a relatively slow speed with some rest stops included. Subsequent runs lessen the amount of rest and add a little more speed. In about ten runs, you will build up to completing the run with no rest and dogs looking like they still had some “gas in the tank”. After that bump up in miles and the speed with the same progression, let’s say up to five miles for ten training runs, and so on. Only you can be the judge of the capability of your team.
IMPORTANT: Overtraining can lead to a downward spiral in performance, rest is as important as the run itself (exercise tears down muscles and rest builds them up even better). Variety is the spice of life. Once your dogs get in decent shape, you will want to vary their conditioning routine to keep their little minds excited about new things. Take new trails, have an extra day off, run two days in a row, do free runs in-between working in harness – anything to keep the dogs happy and engaged in their favorite activity.
Feeding a small team of sled dogs.
DIET
Now let’s look at nutrition. The base diet fed to your canine athletes should be a high-quality kibble that is 30% protein and 20% fat. High-quality kibble will always be well balanced with a vitamin/mineral pack that is especially important and hard to duplicate on one’s own. Make sure you soak the kibble in water before feeding to keep the dogs hydrated. Going further into the fall conditioning season, your dogs will be burning increasing amounts of calories. If you are not already doing so, you will need to start mixing meat with the kibble then. How do you know when to start doing this? The indicator will be either, 1) Your dogs will start losing weight, or 2) Your dogs will start having runny stool after the run. Some of you might be able to get a commercially prepared mix of beef or chicken, liver, egg, oils, and bone meal put together especially for the use in working dogs. If you can’t get your hands on such a mix, simply add ground beef. We do not recommend feeding a raw diet, however, if you believe in feeding raw, there are some commercial vitamin/mineral additives available for purchase to supplement the raw diet. Also adding bone meal is necessary when feeding a raw diet. As you get into the race season, the percentage of meat in your diet will increase. However, feeding more than 50% of meat in the diet is not necessary (50% kibble, 50% meat).
Proper hydration is very important after a training run.
HYDRATION
Each dog should consume about two liters of water a day including what’s added to their meal and including their free access water. You can monitor this by assessing the color of the dog’s urine. The goal is to be as clear as gin. It is important to go into a training run with a well-hydrated team. “Water” your dogs with about 0.75 liters of baited water about two hours before the run. If desired you can also give your dogs an additional two cups of lightly baited water about 30 minutes prior to the run. Make sure your dogs have free access to water after the run or give them baited water (at least two cups).
SUPPLEMENTATION
Adding psyllium husk to the diet will be beneficial for GI tract health (it will firm up the stool). Adding Nutrazinc will promote tough feet, and adding Astaxanthin, a super antioxidant, will prevent the buildup of lactic acid in muscles. Keep in mind that during early warm-weather training (or during races held in warmer weather), replenishing electrolytes after the run is a must (use Electrocharge). If you can, use maltodextrin (or Glycocharge) after the heats of multi-day races to aid muscle glycogen replacement. For increased stamina, use Staminex, an L-Carnitine supplement. Supplementing is highly effective when combined with a good feeding and conditioning regimen and will give you an edge against your competition. Without the whole package, though, it is like trying to “pixie dust” your dogs into performing well and you won’t realize the true benefits of the additives.
We apologize, but due to a supply chain interruption, Electrocharge and Staminex are currently not available.
CONCLUSION
Remember that all dogs are individuals, and you can’t “make” your dog into something it’s incapable of. You can, however, help your dog reach his/her full potential through proper nutrition, training, and conditioning.
Don’t hesitate to contact us should you have any questions regarding this topic. We will be happy to give you professional advice.
